rain gutter installation guide and instruction

A manual containing detailed rain gutter installation guide and instruction can be obtained from a supplier or manufacturer. The general procedure is to install the gutters first — all else will be governed by the position of the outlets to the downpipes. To pinpoint this position, drop a plumb line from the gutter to the drain outlet at ground level. Then mark on the fascia the centre of the position for the outlet. At the end of the run, fix a bracket to support the guttering as close as possible to the underside of the felt projecting from beneath the tiles or, if felt is not fitted, as close to the tiles as possible. Tie string to this bracket and stretch it taut to the position of the outlet. Use a spirit level to ensure that the string is level, then slant the string to give the correct fall. Rain gutter installation guide and instruction will be specified by the manufacturer, but it should be about 5 mm for every metre of gutter run. Mark the position and fit the brackets to support the outlet. Now fit all the other brackets in that run.

rain gutter installation guide and instructionTwo brackets are usually needed for the outlet, plus one at each join and at the spacing recommended by the manufacturer, which is likely to be one bracket about every metre. Use the string, tied taut to a bracket at each end of the run. as a guide to setting all the intermediate brackets at the correct height, and mark the positions at the correct spacing on the fascia. Use non-rusting screws for the fixings. The brackets are normally screwed to the fascia, but if there is none, brackets for screwing to rafters can be bought. Now fit the gutter to the brackets. Use a sharp, finetoothed saw (a hack saw or a carpenter’s panel saw) to cut standard lengths to size. The gutter should be cut squarely across its length. To ensure this, place it upside down on the bench and drape a sheet of newspaper over it. Bring the two edges of the newpaper together, and use the side of it as a guide for the saw, or draw a guide line next to the newspaper. Remove the swarf with a medium-grade file. Fit the gutter to the stop end and outlet. On some brands this is done with clips; others use a sealing device, or solvent welding. lf two lengths are to be joined to make a run of suitable length, follow the manufacturer’s rain gutter installation guide and instruction. Leave gaps within the joints to allow for expansion or contraction during hot or cold weather.

When all the gutters are in position, install the downpipes. These are usually assembled from one or more standard lengths and are cut to size. As with the gutters leave expansion gaps. The pipes are held to the wall by clips. Place a clip at each join, where provision will be made for the expansion gap, and at intervals as recommended by the manufacturer — probably every 2m (6 ft or so). There is no need to drill into brickwork to make the fixings. The weight they carry is minimal, so fixings into mortar joints are adequate. Cut the pipes to lengths that allow such a fixing. Cut the pipes as described for gutters. Do not seal the joints: should a blockage occur later, water issuing from a joint helps to detect its position. To take the pipes under the eaves, you need an offset or ‘swan’s neck’. Either buy one or make it from an offcut of pipe, an offset socket and an offset spigot. Seal also the joint between the gutter outlet and the offset socket, but not that between the spigot and the rest of the downpipe.

Joints in pipes that are not vertical should be sealed, otherwise water will pour out of them regardless of whether there is a blockage farther along, Position the fixing clips so that the main runs of the pipe are vertical. When the clip holding the offset spigot is in place, drop a plumb line from it to help you mark on the wall an accurate position for the clips lower down.  lf the downpipes discharge into an open gully, install a shoe at the bottom (a clip will be needed here, too) pointing away from the house wall and no higher that 50mm above the grating of the gully. This ensures that water will enter the shoe and not splash up against the house wall. lf an adaptor is needed for a direct connection to the drain, buy one from a supplier’s catalogue. As a final check, pour a bucket or two of water in the gutters at the highest point to make sure everything is functioning correctly.